I have wired up my revision 6 lights so that the low beams stay on when the high beams are activated. If there is any interest I will do a write up of what you need and how to do it. You will need to spend around €20.00 to do this mod safely.

Dissclaimer

You do this modification at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage/injury you do to yourself/others or your vehicle !

I'll wager you a kc for the writeup!

+1 on that.

Three things that I will point out right from the start.

1. I do not know if the MR2 will pass the NCT test.

2. I do not know if this mod is legal.

3. I have one small technical matter to deal with, which is the high beam warning light not illuminating (this will be corrected at a later date).

I would also like to mention that I am dissapointed with the quality of the Revision 6 materials and construction. The metal casing is rusting after only two years and the wiring is sloppy. When I removed the insulating tape, two earth wires dropped out from where they should have been crimped together.

To do this mod you will need to bypass the original Toyota wiring because it is not heavy enough for the current to travel to both lights at the same time. Instead the Toyota wiring will be used to trigger relays that will carry power from the battery to the lights. You will also be removing the Revision 6 wiring to the lights. All four lights will be protected by fuses. The lighting system will still operate from the original light-stalk.

T.B.C.

Marty J wrote:
Three things that I will point out right from the start.

1. I do not know if the MR2 will pass the NCT test.

2. I do not know if this mod is legal.

3. I have one small technical matter to deal with, which is the high beam warning light not illuminating (this will be corrected at a later date).

I would also like to mention that I am dissapointed with the quality of the Revision 6 materials and construction. The metal casing is rusting after only two years and the wiring is sloppy. When I removed the insulating tape, two earth wires dropped out from where they should have been crimped together.

To do this mod you will need to bypass the original Toyota wiring because it is not heavy enough for the current to travel to both lights at the same time. Instead the Toyota wiring will be used to trigger relays that will carry power from the battery to the lights. You will also be removing the Revision 6 wiring to the lights. All four lights will be protected by fuses. The lighting system will still operate from the original light-stalk.

T.B.C.

Marty - I guess you probably already know about this thread from Rogue ....

www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13...;highlight=revision6

I did not know about that thread. My lights are no more than 3 years old and they have only been fitted since I removed the engine for a rebuild, so they didn't do a great job of updating their products. I have thought about making the housings out of aluminium or carbon fiber.

The discount they offer on that IMOC thread isn't exactly generous. If I had bought the rev6 lights and this happened after a couple of years I would be looking a free set. I might pay postage but that would be it.

IT's a bit of a warning for dealing with these guys I think

They should have gone for aluminium which would last a lot longer and is lighter.I think they got it wrong when it came to developing and marketing this product. I have dealt with them before and they are genuine and helpful.

Marty J wrote:
They should have gone for aluminium which would last a lot longer and is lighter.I think they got it wrong when it came to developing and marketing this product. I have dealt with them before and they are genuine and helpful.

I haven't dealt with them yet - I should have said that earlier to be fair.

Their reputation is good around the MR2 community. I just think giving people £20 (I think it was) off the replacement price for a defective product is a bit cheeky ... to say the least.

If I were in that position I would have the lights back to them for a full refund, as long as it was within 2-3 years. They should never rust, considering how little they are actually exposed to rain.

You could video yourself smashing them up with a baseball bat in protest and stick it on youtube like that pissed off Lambo owner in China!

Defective parts should be covered under warranty. End of.

Some photos for you incase you thought I had abandoned this thread. More info to come. Now back to the engine


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The good weather enticed me outside today to sort out the blue high beam indicator light on the dash.

It was so simple I could have kicked myself

I'm going to paint the metal housings so they don't rust away.

Very simple diagram to follow soon, promise

Nice work Marty - Kc!

Parts required:

6 x 40 amp relays SPNO 12vdc £2.99 each at Maplin electronics.

4 x 10 amp flat blade fuses.

2 x 3 amp flat blade fuses.

Fuse holder which can hold at least six flat blade fuses.

4 meters of red 1.19mm2 or 2.12mm2 cable for positive connection to high and low beam lights.

2 meters of black 2.12mm2 cable for ground.

50 female flat blade 6.3mm crimp on connectors.

6 x ring connectors for ground.


The Revision 6 wiring is not used in this conversion, but you may want to hold onto it if you ever decide to sell the lights.

In the diagram the OEM cables that was originally used to power the original headlights are now only to be used as a trigger to activate the relays.

All positive cables connected to the positive on the battery should be connected individually and not by one cable from the fuse box, even though it looks that way in the diagram.

The first diagram is for the high beam and low beam. The way I have these wired is to keep the low beam on when the high beam is activated.

The second diagram is for the parking lights that are built into the high beam. They use the front parking lights for the trigger.

OEM cables for high and low:

Red/blue dash high beam indicator.
Red/yellow high beam.
Red/black.
Red/green.

OEM cableas for parking lights:

Green +12v
White/black ground.

In the diagram where it shows the ground symbol, make sure you use a good connection to the car body. I used screws that was already there.


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So, Quandry and slipsliderg can you follow my diagrams ? If you have any questions I will do my best to answer them.

Marty, you have KC, great write up and even I could follow that wiring diagram fair play to you.

Nice work Marty (KC). I am swamped at work at present so won't be tackling the project just yet. Maybe early next year when the working on car weather comes back though