Though id write up a little guide on an easy way of bleeding the mr2 clutch since im seeing people all over the internet struggling wasting days and if they are lucky they succeed if not some turn to a mechanic in the end.
And there are no simple explanations on how to do it so i came up with my own little idea which i havent seen anywhere and all u need is an empty plastic bottle of coke, sprite, or whatever u have lying around.

Anyway here is the tip on bleeding the clutch.
Get a brake bleeding kit, attach it to the slave clutch cylinder bleeder valve to bleed the fluid and unscrew the valve a little
Now go to the front of the car remove the support,strut bar which gets in ur way of pouring the clutch fluid in.
Pull off the rubber cap from the clutch reservoir, on top of the rubber cap u will see another little rubber cap, take that off with a flat head screwdriver.
Now fill up the clutch reservoir full of the clutch fluid, put the rubber lid back o the reservoir and get an empty plastic bottle of coke or whatever other plastic bottle u have, unscrew the cap and throw aside.
Put the bottle neck to the top of the rubber lid, push down and squeeze the bottle to force air pressure through the little hole at the top of the rubber lid to force the fluid and the air out of the bleed valve.
Top up with fluid, tighten the bleed valve and test clutch, if not hard enough repeat.

If you dont have a break bleeding kit get one its very handy and only about 7euro in halfords or get someone down under the car to loosen the fluid bleed valve as u apply pressure to the bottle but make sure u tell them to close it on time because the fluid gets forced out very fast and the whole system will be empty again in seconds, happened to me on my first go but i just topped it up with fluid again forced it through once and just after 1 go i felt the clutch pedal get stiff, i think this is a pretty effective way, let me know how it works out for anyone trying this method.

I tried my best explaining hope it makes sense

Never done this but found this below a while ago and made a note of it:



Bleeding The Hydraulic Clutch System

Article written by Mike Maddux – Published on 2010-05-13
Toyota MR2 World Library – Service:Brakes and Clutch Section
The contents of this article are © Copyrighted and published under the following terms:
Released under the terms of the CC Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License
As an experienced mechanic, I will never be more humbled than I was by this simple solution to a problem that caused me many a wasted evening.
OK. New clutch master and slave cylinders. Install. (This is the crux, but read on.) Add fluid. Crack slave bleeder, attach tube, put in bottle. Pump clutch pedal ten times. Look in bottle. Nothing. Repeat ad nauseum. Zippo.
Tried gravity bleeding. Kinda, but not really. Zippo.
Get out Mity-vac. Set it up. see a little fluid. Repeat, ad nauseum. Zippo. Open beer and give up.
Finally, online, I found this:

"I think the biggest reason it is so hard to bleed the clutch system is because the bleeder valve is not higher than the incoming fluid line. Gravity bleeding will work to clear the clutch line of air, but there will be a bubble left in the slave cylinder. What I found that works is to simply unbolt the slave cylinder and hold it such in a way that the bleeder valve is at the highest point, relative to the incoming line. Holding it this way, the air bubble in the cylinder will naturally float up and out by gravity, e.g. the slave will fill up from the bottom and push the air out the top. Since gravity is doing all the work, this is a one man job. When the air bubbles stop, close the bleeder and attach the slave to the bell housing."
Slapped myself in the forehead and caught a lesson in humility.

Yeah i read that when i was looking for ideas on bleeding it but it just sounded like too much work just to bleed a clutch.
Its very difficult to do anything under the car because there is not much room around the slave cylinder, and i wasnt going to start unbolting the engine mount to take off the slave cylinder after struggling to put it on, it just sounded like too much work for a simple clutch bleeding process.
A simple plastic bottle is just the simplest way of doing it, and all you will need to take off is the front support/strut bar which gets in the way.

I tried this method again today and it only took me no more than 15min to fully bleed the clutch, i also took pics this time for people to get a better understanding of how this works.
Take off the cap.

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG
Pull the little rubber cover off the top of it

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG
Remove the strut bar from the frunk because it will get in the way

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG
Find a bottle that will fit on top of that cap (sprite, coke bottle works good too)

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG
And put it back on the clutch fluid reservoir,

_KUNENA_BBCODE_HIDEIMG

Now instead of pumping the pedal you will be squeezing the bottle to force the fluid through the pipes while the other person opens the bleeder nipple under the car.
Keep topping up the fluid and squeezing the bottle to force it through until there are no more bubbles, once there are no more bubbles thats it the clutch is done without even having to go near the pedal :)

Great write up Max done this today KC

thanks
how long did it take ya?

Around 5 minutes

awesome, dont think it can get any better than that

Nope worked a treat

I had some bleeding issues in my engine swap a while ago.
I tried to bleed the cluch allmoust two hours and nothing.. All the time my pedal would just push to the bottom.
Then I had an idea:
What is I wouldn't push the fluid down from the reservoir, but up from the bleeding valve.
I crafter similiar coce-bottle with hose setting and filled it with brakefluid and squeezed the fluid up from the bleeder valve... 5min and I was done!

Solor wrote:
I had some bleeding issues in my engine swap a while ago.
I tried to bleed the cluch allmoust two hours and nothing.. All the time my pedal would just push to the bottom.
Then I had an idea:
What is I wouldn't push the fluid down from the reservoir, but up from the bleeding valve.
I crafter similiar coce-bottle with hose setting and filled it with brakefluid and squeezed the fluid up from the bleeder valve... 5min and I was done!

Yeah i thought of that too but bit more crafting required but yeah it works the same way, also another problem doing it that way is you will get brake fluid all over your frunk if ur not careful when the reservoir overfills.
I think just taking the strut brace off and forcing it out the way its supposed to go with a brake bleeding kit is easyer.

very handy & crafty way of doing it ...