Thanks for the compliments Swagger.

Here's the photos of the crank trigger wheel and sensor.


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So the standard intake manifold and throttlebody are back on. I went to install the exhaust manifold which already has the turbo and downpipe attached which has revealed a little problem. Because I have an engine girdle and a Moroso sump on, the down pipe is hitting the sump. So I will have to extend the down pipe about two centimeters.

After I have sorted that out, I will attach the ATS twin plate carbon clutch and the gearbox.

Good man yourself.

Did you get the cams degreed ok? Sorry I never replied about my kit, I blew my water pump and have had a few other bits and pieces going on!

I've went for a trigger wheel mounted on the crank - your's is a much neater install!

COP isn't expensive. You can get LS2 coils for sod all.

Yes the cams have been set to Pipers spec.

I am juggling the cash at the moment, if I was still working this would have been finished a long time ago. So the cops will have to wait for now.

I thought that my local engineering firm could have supplied me with some piping to modify the down-pipe and mid-section. Unfortunately they don't have the correct size tubing in stock, I will have to look elsewhere.

And a kick in the nuts to myself, I need to repair the fuel tank. To cut a long story short, it needs to be brazed

What's the latest? did you get your tank fixed?

Not yet. I also need something cheap to replace the part that the + wires from the fuel pumps are connected to inside the tank. Any ideas as to what I could use ?

Sorry Marty, my mechanic changed my fuel pump so I haven't seen it first hand. If it's possible to use genuine Toyota though it may be a good investment. Their parts seem to last the longest and is there a safety consideration also?

I don't think this part is sold on its own. Basically it is carrying the + from the battery into the fuel tank so it is insulated so not to touch the tank which is negative.

Maybe you can get one from Joe?

Actually thinking about it you might be able to get a whole tank from Joe in Tuam, then you don't need to braze your old tank??

The reason I need to weld the tank is because I caused a split when I was removing a lip inside the flange. I needed to widen the lip to allow the two Walbro pumps to squeeze inside the tank. One of the pumps has isulation on it so they don't vibrate together and this made it even more difficult to fit them in.

So I would have to modify another tank which could go the same way. I will fix this tank myslef to save some cash.

With a bit of ingenuity I think I could make something to safely carry the positive into the tank for the pumps. But if someone finds something that will do the job cheaply, please post it here.

The engine will be coming off the stand soon and this Carbonetic twin plate clutch will be the next part to be attached.


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Making good progress Martin. Any idea when you'll be running it in? I've started tearing my car apart at last. Need to get a few more tools as the ones I have are breaking left and right! Buy cheap, buy twice!

I thought that I would have had it back together by now Dan, so I am going to refrain from answering when it will be ready.

I learned quick not to buy cheap tools. They nearly always let you down when you need them the most. Think of your MR2 like it is a sexy woman, she wants a good tool to keep her purring.

Haha, nice analogy. Yea I think I'll just get some of the Halfords Professional ones as there's a lifetime waranty on the mechanical parts. Can't see myself actually snapping any of them in two so it should be fine. Halfords is only down the road too so makes sense. Pity they're so expensive. Could do with a trade card!

I bought some ratchet spanners from Halfords in Letterkenny a few years ago and they are great, but a bit pricey.

Marty J wrote:
I bought some ratchet spanners from Halfords in Letterkenny a few years ago and they are great, but a bit pricey.

+1, but having them a few years proves there not that pricey

Build is coming on well there Marty, keep at it.

I'm buying a lot of tools at Halfords. I'd like to buy snap on but it's 7 times the price. I know they're bloody good, but the Halfords stuff is working just fine for me.

Yea, the bits I broke were from a mates toolbox he got in Halfords but they were those cheap ones in the €79 euro tool box. Overall though it's not a bad bit of kit. Just the socket wrench didn't last more than ten minutes! I'll get a good set of 1/2" sockets and a good wrench shortly though.

Marty J wrote:
Yes the cams have been set to Pipers spec.

I am juggling the cash at the moment, if I was still working this would have been finished a long time ago. So the cops will have to wait for now.

I thought that my local engineering firm could have supplied me with some piping to modify the down-pipe and mid-section. Unfortunately they don't have the correct size tubing in stock, I will have to look elsewhere.

And a kick in the nuts to myself, I need to repair the fuel tank. To cut a long story short, it needs to be brazed

Do you see the down pipe - I believe the ONLY reason my manifold hasn't cracked is because my ENTIRE downpipe is flexi. I made it by cutting the downpipe up that I had,welding a v-band flange on to one end, and welding the other end to a length of flexi pipe.

The pipe costs £15 for 2 meters at your local motor factor.

Have a look here


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On the subject of ratchet spanners, only Brittool make decent ones.

All my other tools are Teng (But I use snap-on ratchets, as the teng ratchets are shite)

what model is the crank trigger off ?

I believe it's used on the Beams engine.

Cracking build fair play looking gud

What's the latest on your build then Marty??

Sorry to say nothing has happened with the engine. I have a few things to be considered with other parts of the car before the engine goes in.

Just a question for you, I want to check my cam timing with a dial gauge indicator. Can these be bought online and do you know of any good writeups for the 3sgte?

Borrowed from Piper cams:

A Guide to Correct Timing

To check your cam timing, you will need a 360 degree protractor and dial gauge. The engine must be set at TDC and the protractor bolted to the crank pulley. Attach the dial gauge so that the foot is resting on the valve spring cap (or follower on OHC engine). Attach a pointer to the engine and zero the protractor. The engine is now at TDC with the protractor reading zero.

Turn the engine until full lift is first shown on dial gauge. Note number of degrees (e.g. 106 degrees ATDC), continue to turn the engine and note when lift starts to reduce (e.g. 110 degrees ATDC). True full lift position will, in this case, be 108 degrees. Your figures will differ but true full lift is at midway point.

The correct full lift position for your cam is shown on attached information sheet.


I bought my dial gauge from an engineering firm a few years ago, but I cannot remember who they are. I will take a look later on to see what brand it is.

Thanks Marty, I might also check with Josh also, he's normally pretty good on tools online etc.