Alrite lads & lassie's,

Havin trouble wit engine start. Car turns over, but rev's drop strait away and cuts out. Ive replaced "wat i was told was" the automatic choke (white sensor on bottom of throttle body) i also replaced the ETC sensor (green sensor on water housing) but car still does the same ting. Wen the car heats up "bout 5mins wit pressure on accel at 1000rpm" it is perfect, drives like a dream..
I messed around wit the "air timing screw??" (located on top of throttle body, under black rubber cap) i opened it up a small bit, tried the car, started no problem, but i can hear the air sucking in, and i knw its not a gud idea to mess round wit it so i put it bck wer it was, which was closed tight...

Any idea's...

Its a 1990 non turbo. It has cruise control, not sure if dat makes a difference..

Any error codes amps, and I am not sure if the early tubbies have a IACV (Idle air control valve) on them if they do it may be the source of the problem.

Edit: read your post to quick and missjudge the tubby aspect.

Check for codes and post back.

My girlfriends old car had the same problem. The idle was too low. When you start the car cold, what RPM is she running at? The GF's car was idling at 500RPM which is too low and would cut out until it was good and warm. We adjusted the throttle arm up a little (2 min job) until the car was idling at 800-900 revs. Job's a gud'un. Sorted.

You probably know this, but just in case, the throttle arm is just the little arm on the block that you can flick with your hand to rev the engine. There is a cable running from it to the accelorator pedal, its like a steel braid handbrake cable for example. So as you hit the pedal, the cable pulls the arm and controls the throttle / revs. There is a small locking nut, loosen that and usually there is then a small grub screw (allen key required? to adjust the idle.

Hope that helps. Try it at least before you spend anymore money!

Good luck.

@ slipsliderg:
I havnt done a diagnostics on her yet, no funds at the moment to pay 4 it... The idle air control valve, is dat not the screw i mentioned on the throttle body.??

"(I messed around wit the "air timing screw??" (located on top of throttle body, under black rubber cap) i opened it up a small bit, tried the car, started no problem, but i can hear the air sucking in, and i knw its not a gud idea to mess round wit it so i put it bck wer it was, which was closed tight...)" Maybe.???


@ swagger:
Once she's warm, the rev's sit at 800... It wont idle at all wen started, jus drops off strait away.. I really need 2get her on a diagnostic soon...


Cheers lad's

Hey man, To do a quick diagnostic just remove the cap off your diagnostic box in the engine bay and with a pin or copper wire or whatever carries a current bridge terminals Te1 to E1, turn the ignition to position 2 or II and you'll see the check engine light start to flash a constant steady flash means no faults, i'm sure there's something on the site that lists all the codes meanings!
Good luck all the same!

Cheers man, done dat wit a bit of wire, engine light flashed but not constant. I sat der an watched it 2 r 3 times, and wat i can make out is 212241, ie: flashed twice, stopped, once, stopped, twice, stopped ect ect....
Gona hav a look an see if i can find d error code match, but if any1 out der knw's it "id b lucky" let me knw...

Cheers... Karma click for u mate

i know a page for the mrk1 codes but not sure if they'd be the same:

www.challoner.com/mr2/tech/diagnostics.html

Engine ECU Codes:

Paul Mouland and three friends (Hiroki Sato, Tony McDaid, and Ken Skinner) have researched the correct computer error codes for Japanese turbo models.

Error codes are generated when the Engine Control Unit (ECU, or SMPI system in the workshop manuals) receives an abnormal signal from a sensor. These error codes are stored, and can cause the check engine light to appear on the dashboard. It appears that MR2s destined for different markets can have different error codes, although the majority of error codes are shared across all variants. Some UK dealers have been able to successfully use UK diagnostic equipment to diagnose faults on 92-93 Japanese MR2 Turbos.

The error codes can be extracted from the ECU by carefully linking (and do this at your own risk) the TE1 and E1 connectors on the gray diagnostics connector, whilst the engine is switched off (eg using a highly calibrated paperclip!). The picture below illustrates the diagnosis connector and the locations of these connectors - top right and middle-middle on the left hand side block of connectors - note they're covered with a good dollop of grease.



If you then turn the ignition to the second (normal running) position, the engine symbol on the dashboard will begin to flash. Continuous steady flashing shows no error conditions are stored. If error codes are stored, they are kept as a two digit code, e.g. 2 and 3 flashes is the code 23. For a good explanation of this process see Dennis's Celica GT4 page.

To do further diagnostics you need a workshop manual, see 'handbooks/manuals' below. A summary of the error codes is given below:

Codes
Item
Page Numbers in Japanese Manuals

2/31 Inhalation pipe pressure meter 2-26

3/14 Ignition indicator (except cars with DLI, DRD) 2-28

3/14 Ignition indicator (for cars with DLI, DRD) 2-34

4/22 Water leak indicator 2-44

5/21 Dx indicator 2-46

6/12-3 Tachometer 2-50

7/41 Throttle indicator (cars with linear sensor) 2-52

7/41 Throttle indicator 2-54

8/24 Inhalation temperature indicator 2-56

9/42 Speedometer 2-58

10/43 STA indicator 2-66

11/51 Switch 2-68

11 +B (except cars with step motor type ISCV) 2-72

11 +B (for cars with Step motor type ISCV) 2-78

23 Evaporator temperature indicator 2-84

31,32 Air flow meter (except cars with carman whirlpool air flow meter) 2-86

31 Air flow meter (for cars for carman meter) 2-88

32 Atmospheric pressure meter (7M-GTEU) 2-90

33 ISCV meter 2-92

34 Circulation pressure supply (?) 2-96

31 Circulation pressure supply (?) 2-100

35 Turbo pressure meter 2-102

52,53 Knock indicator (sensor) 2-106

54 Inter cooler 2-108

01 Data communication 2-114


www.btinternet.com/~netsurf/mr2t/mr2tfaq.html

OBD1 Codes
1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.

Im not sure if these are the rite codes,
but if they are, wud it mean dat 212241 stands for:

(a) 21 Oxygen Sensor
(b) 22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal
(c) 41 Throttle Position Sensor signal

dshamrock2000 wrote:
Engine ECU Codes:

Paul Mouland and three friends (Hiroki Sato, Tony McDaid, and Ken Skinner) have researched the correct computer error codes for Japanese turbo models.


My 2 is a jap non turbo pal

OBD1 codes are for the newer type cars, AFAIK they are not applicable up to maybe rev 4 and beyond. I could be corrected on that though.

slipsliderg wrote:
OBD1 codes are for the newer type cars, AFAIK they are not applicable up to maybe rev 4 and beyond. I could be corrected on that though.


Are they not from early 80's to 95-ish.? Taut dats wat i read, ill hav another look for dem, cheers man..

Amps wrote:
slipsliderg wrote:
OBD1 codes are for the newer type cars, AFAIK they are not applicable up to maybe rev 4 and beyond. I could be corrected on that though.


Are they not from early 80's to 95-ish.? Taut dats wat i read, ill hav another look for dem, cheers man..

Shite your right, I am so wrong apoligies, now of to find a common fault for all those error codes and that should make up for my sins.

No probs man

Rite lads, tink i found the problem...
Wen i got the car, me exhaust was blown a bit,
3 holes was the source of the problem,
1 of which was the post cat sensor "heat sensor",
it was loose so got it welded !!!!!
Dats me problem, sensor got fried...
My problem now is, sensor is welded to me exhaust
so its gonna cost a small fortune 2 fix:

New Exhaust, Sensor, and get sensor properly soldered an heat wrapped again....

That sensor has been disconnected for ages on mine with no bad effect, I think the problem is somewhere else. Check the items called up in the error codes. Find the maintenance book for the car and do the tests detailed for the error codes and work thru them one at a time.

I am thinking the car was running fine and then all of a sudden this problem occurs, is that the case. IF so did you disconnect any earth straps etc as that might have created the three error codes.

The car was runnin fine for a couple of days "own it 2weeks now", i had a few bits done on it, but i was chatting 2 a mechanic neighbour of mine about the codes, ie: 212241, and we looked dem up in his diagnostic book and he said it was 21 Oxygen Sensor,
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal, 41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.. We worked it out dat 21 is the problem as it is the post cat sensor on the exhaust.. Me 2 was fine until i had it welded, the next day she wudnt tick ovr 4 me, but i nevr taut of dat as the fault until 2day... It was disconnected/broke away and it was causin a slight blown in the exhaust so i had it (fixed) The weld must of burnt/fried the sensor...