1) How do you fit an after market bov? Im pretty sure its missing an adapter of some.Basically i have a piece like this.. |Silicone|Pipe with adapter for BOV|Silicone|
Diagram (excuse the poor effort,if its hard to work out ill do a better one)

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If i replace the inlet side intercooler pipe with this and plumb up the BOV with it,how do i block off the original BOV?

2) It seems the Vaccum between the actuator and the turbo compressor housing is silicone tube wrapped in braided (bad condition) line,can i replace this with simple vaccum line as i plan on T'ing the boost guage here

Dan


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That exact one actually
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Thats a bit fucking weird actually, normally the BOV is bolted on to a hard pipe. The hard pipe has a flange factory welded on (unless the stock hardpipe was uprated) that takes the stock BOV. Usually, when upgrading/swapping the BOV, its just a matter of getting a BOV with an MK2 MR2 flange and directly bolting on and plumbing exactly as the stock one was. Now obviously some BOV's are re-circ and some are not. Im no expert on this, others may shed more light, but im sure that there is a difference between Rev1&2 and Rev3 plus, in terms of how the stock BOV was setup. I think (50/50) that the Rev3+ stock setup is re-circ and before is not, could be the other way around. Best person to answer this is with any confidence is Quandry, maybe Spidey, but others may know too. Best thing to do is post some pics of the existing layout.

SWAGGER wrote:
Thats a bit fucking weird actually, normally the BOV is bolted on to a hard pipe. The hard pipe has a flange factory welded on (unless the stock hardpipe was uprated) that takes the stock BOV. Usually, when upgrading/swapping the BOV, its just a matter of getting a BOV with an MK2 MR2 flange and directly bolting on and plumbing exactly as the stock one was. Now obviously some BOV's are re-circ and some are not. Im no expert on this, others may shed more light, but im sure that there is a difference between Rev1&2 and Rev3 plus, in terms of how the stock BOV was setup. I think (50/50) that the Rev3+ stock setup is re-circ and before is not, could be the other way around. Best person to answer this is with any confidence is Quandry, maybe Spidey, but others may know too. Best thing to do is post some pics of the existing layout.
Thats what i was thinking.Although on the 4efte,some FMIC kits places the bov on the intake side and you simply block the OEM BOV hole off.

Ill get some pictures anyhow

That BOV you have pictured there is a venting type (i.e. does not recirc the charge back in after the air flow meter. I'm pretty sure your car has an air flow meter right?

So you have three options:
1. Use the bov but the car will not run right at low speed (i.e. cutting out at lights on decel etc, spluttering, generally running rich)
2. Get a different bov that supports air recirc (I think I have a Greddy air recirc pipe kicking around if that helps - unless I gave it to Swagger?)
3. Get a different ECU so you can eliminate the AFM and then you can run whatever BOV you want.

Looking at the pic you posted it seems that they include a T'd off pipe as a sort of 'interceptor' so you can leave the stock bov in place or block it off. That may work ok but IMO would be a bit visually unappealing.

I'll dig up some engine bay pics and post them on here so you can see what others have been doing..

Here's some SW20 engine bay pics to get a feel for what others are doing:

(Click to enlarge)


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GenII Standard (for reference)

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Anyone got some others?




If you search for Mark234 on here he has an impressive bay also..

Thanks Quandry,very detailed reply
If you still had the greddy and you'd take p/x with the other bov i could maybe get it off you that way,at the minute i have a wedding,holiday,tyres and tax to pay for lol

And those bays are pretty damn nice

I don't have the greddy any more, I sold it on to Swagger. Although my car had the recirc pipe years ago before I changed to non-recirc and so I might have just the pipe hanging about in the shed. You would then need to buy a greddy bov with MR2 flange (possible on ebay with some searching/waiting)

Hey Quandry, yes I bought the BOV and we fitted it, but to your surprise (I had no idea) my car was already set up for re-circ, so no, I didnt take the pipe, you must still have it. I have aftermarket turbo hardpipes that had the stock Toyota BOV flange, and the re-circ pipe just popped on the BOV and back to the intake hardpipe.

SWAGGER wrote:
Hey Quandry, yes I bought the BOV and we fitted it, but to your surprise (I had no idea) my car was already set up for re-circ, so no, I didnt take the pipe, you must still have it. I have aftermarket turbo hardpipes that had the stock Toyota BOV flange, and the re-circ pipe just popped on the BOV and back to the intake hardpipe.

Hmm yeah you are right, maybe the recirc pipe is standard TOYOTA rather than a greddy part..

Cant be 100% sure, but it looks that way to me. The re-circ in mine is just a bit of heavy vacuum pipe, straight from the side of the BOV to my air intake, but it comes in on the inside of the AFM, as in after it.

First post updated with picture of Vac lines

And heres one that makes me thing the turbo seals might be gone

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No they do that, it's the PCV recirc that goes from the cam cover in to the inlet hose. Some people get rid of that.

Quandry wrote:
No they do that, it's the PCV recirc that goes from the cam cover in to the inlet hose. Some people get rid of that.

Well i plumbed the boost gauge in today and it's boosting a stable 0.4bar and i had a look at all the vac lines and there doesnt seem to be another leak.Also done a compression test and it came up at 180-183 across the board.Also there is no HKS Actuator and it has a standard ECU.
So if its none of the above what could be causing the low boost and slowness?

** The downpipe/Decat doesnt is missing two bolts,but theres no signs of it blowing(paper test)

Could be a few things. Either your wastegate is stuck open, or your tvsv is not opening through an electrical fault, or the ECU is stuck in safe mode from an excessive knock event or over boost event. You could reset your ecu and see if that makes a difference.

Out of interest, is the boost id line from the turbo going straight to the wastegate actuator or does it go off down a pipe under the inlet manifold?

Secondly, when you start the car from cold, does it idle up or does it start with a low rpm and then gradually build it's way up to 900rpm?

Quandry wrote:
Could be a few things. Either your wastegate is stuck open, or your tvsv is not opening through an electrical fault, or the ECU is stuck in safe mode from an excessive knock event or over boost event. You could reset your ecu and see if that makes a difference.

Out of interest, is the boost id line from the turbo going straight to the wastegate actuator or does it go off down a pipe under the inlet manifold?

Secondly, when you start the car from cold, does it idle up or does it start with a low rpm and then gradually build it's way up to 900rpm?
Dont think its stuck open,it does "build" boost.
Not sure on the TVSV or the ECU,how can i check them?I take it pulling the power or EFI fuse will reset the ecu?

The boost line from the compressor side of the turbo is going straight to the actuator.

When started from cold it revs high and as it warms up it backs down.

Quandry wrote:
when you start the car from cold, does it idle up or does it start with a low rpm and then gradually build it's way up to 900rpm?
Can I ask why you asked this Quandry ?
The cold start has stoped working on mine Havent checked why
Got a cold temp sensor from camskills will fit it tomorrow

Well i reset the ECU (pulled the EFI fuse and waited 10 seconds and replaced) and done a fault code test which came up clean.

Then i pulled the vac line off the turbo to actuator and it boosted to just past .5bar.
Opinions?

Now im a bit rusty on turbo tech,but that would point to WG problems and/or TVSV?

does the EFI fuse isolate the ECU? I thought it was just the fuel injection

Spanky wrote:
does the EFI fuse isolate the ECU? I thought it was just the fuel injection

AFAIK it resets it,thats what it done on the 4efte anyhow

dan_ep82 wrote:
Spanky wrote:
does the EFI fuse isolate the ECU? I thought it was just the fuel injection

AFAIK it resets it,thats what it done on the 4efte anyhow

You are probably right and I'm by no means 100% sure which one is the power supply to the ECU, but there are fuses labelled as 'ECU-IG' and 'ECU-B' as well as 'EFI'. Both of these are 7.5A each and the EFI one is 15A.

ECU-IG seems to be linked to ignition but ECU-B appears to be a constant feed.

A voltmeter at the ECU would confirm for you or disconnect the battery for a definite isolation.

dan_ep82 wrote:


The boost line from the compressor side of the turbo is going straight to the actuator.


Ok so if you still have a TVSV on your car it is not plumbed in then, this means that the ECU is not in charge of your boost pressure, it's now being controlled by the wastegate spring only.

Assuming you have no mechanical fault with the wastegate or spring, then you will need either a mechanical or electronic boost controller to attain a higher boost pressure.

It sounds strange that you disconnected your boost id line from the wastegate and it did not boost higher. In theory you should have got a boost spike (and maybe blow your engine).

If I were you I would try an MBC and if that does not work then you'll have to pull the turbo and check your wastegate action.

ricky2 wrote:
Quandry wrote:
when you start the car from cold, does it idle up or does it start with a low rpm and then gradually build it's way up to 900rpm?
Can I ask why you asked this Quandry ?
The cold start has stoped working on mine Havent checked why
Got a cold temp sensor from camskills will fit it tomorrow

My yellow/black wire in the engine bay shorted out before I bought the car. I landed up splicing in another 12v feed in to the TVSV plug (all the actuators including ISCV run on that same wire) and hey presto it all started working again..

Quandry wrote:
dan_ep82 wrote:


The boost line from the compressor side of the turbo is going straight to the actuator.


It sounds strange that you disconnected your boost id line from the wastegate and it did not boost higher. In theory you should have got a boost spike (and maybe blow your engine).

If I were you I would try an MBC and if that does not work then you'll have to pull the turbo and check your wastegate action.
I know,i was taking it handy expecting it to hit fuel cut after a spike but nope,and when i put the line back on it seems to have a flat spot the whole way through the gears,think i may whip off the turbo and have a look at the actuator and wastegate etc

Unless you've got some kind of boost leak, although I presume you would hear something like that.. hmm curious

Quandry wrote:
Unless you've got some kind of boost leak, although I presume you would hear something like that.. hmm curious
Well i checked all the VAC lines and IC lines and havent noticed it,is there any way i can remove the TVSV boost limit from the gears incase its that going through all the gears?
I know in the 4efte you could just run the boost line out back into it (loop it) and block off the other end on the actuator.

*by the way,not sure where the TVSV is,under the inlet manifold/plenium ?

Oh,i need a T piece aswell,must pick that up today.blocked off a pipe on the BOV (the one nearer the driver side) to T in the boost gauge,didnt make a difference but id still prefer to have it all done right

Ah ok, sorry I misread one of your earlier posts. I take it your wastegate actuator still has two feeds going to it?

If you have two (like factory), then yes it could be the TVSV that is creating your leak. One feed is boost pressure coming from your turbo, the second line is the one that goes to the TVSV. Just cap it off using a vacuum cap, or some vacuum line with a screw in it, then that will eliminate the TVSV which (I believe) operates like a factory electronic bleed valve.

Quandry wrote:
Ah ok, sorry I misread one of your earlier posts. I take it your wastegate actuator still has two feeds going to it?

If you have two (like factory), then yes it could be the TVSV that is creating your leak. If you source the line that is going from the actuator to the TVSV and just cap it off using a vacuum cap, or some vacuum line with a screw in it, then that will eliminate the TVSV which (I believe) operates like a factory electronic bleed valve.

ah grand,so i can block it off at the actuator so?

dan_ep82 wrote:
Quandry wrote:
Ah ok, sorry I misread one of your earlier posts. I take it your wastegate actuator still has two feeds going to it?

If you have two (like factory), then yes it could be the TVSV that is creating your leak. If you source the line that is going from the actuator to the TVSV and just cap it off using a vacuum cap, or some vacuum line with a screw in it, then that will eliminate the TVSV which (I believe) operates like a factory electronic bleed valve.

ah grand,so i can block it off at the actuator so?

lol yep, was just editing my post to make it clearer...

Quandry wrote:
dan_ep82 wrote:
Quandry wrote:
Ah ok, sorry I misread one of your earlier posts. I take it your wastegate actuator still has two feeds going to it?

If you have two (like factory), then yes it could be the TVSV that is creating your leak. If you source the line that is going from the actuator to the TVSV and just cap it off using a vacuum cap, or some vacuum line with a screw in it, then that will eliminate the TVSV which (I believe) operates like a factory electronic bleed valve.

ah grand,so i can block it off at the actuator so?

lol yep, was just editing my post to make it clearer...

Ah lol,cheers,ill let you know how it goes