ah bolox lads, just got my car dyno'd with standard everything, and all i got was 148.3 bhp... thats surely not right! any suggestions on what to do to rectify this... its meant to be 220 bhp or something aint it??

Did the dyno guy tell you anything about the AFR's or give you a print out with them on it. Sounds to me like the ECU is in safe mode. Is the check engine light on and if not is it there.

Have you checked for error codes.

turbo or n/a??? turbo is up around 220 mark n/a ranges from 153 to 170 bhp i think anyway

Mine was something similar when I got it but it turned out that the turbo was stuck in low boost mode.

Can you take a photo of your dyno sheet and post it up here? maybe some photos of the engine bay also and we'll get you sorted

it sounds about right to me, its 20 year old, engines lose hp over the years, turbo will certainly not be at the 0.8 bar boost it was when it was new and supposed to be 220bhp, also 220 was on a higher octane than we have here, and of course 220bhp was at the flywheel, this is probably a whp figure

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there is the dyno run sheet lads, how did you get it out of low boost mode??? and its a rev 2 turbo!! as you can see mj its only 107.4 at the wheel!! i nearly cried when i got the results...!

Hi Barry, That is way down on power. Unfortunately they are not showing us two key credentials on the readout which would help with diagnosis -

AFR - Air / Fuel ratio
PSI or Bar - Boost pressure

The torque line is waving a bit, this could be caused by a boost issue, or possible knock sensor retarding ignition. The good news is that with just some maintenance and replacing faulty components, you stand to get a big increase!

Have a read of this article: www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm and then come back to let us know where you want to get to

Ouch, thats flywheel hp, put a gauge on it and find out what its boosting at

honestly quandry i don't know if he can do that, i might sound like a bit of a dummy here but he does'nt hook up anything to the engine or sensor's... just puts it on the rolling road and drives it up through the gears... but when you mention ignition timing, a mechanic friend of mine reckons there is something wrong with the timing as my car does'nt like starting at all when cold...but at the moment i have a 3" de cat, induction kit, race radiator, walbro fuel pump, and new plug's and lead's to go on her, gonna get her dyno'd again next week and see what happen's! wish me luck!!

Take it to a different dyno where the operator knows what they are doing. It only needs to be run in fourth gear as it is the 1:1 gear. Any dyno test should measure boost via a tube conn at your bov and afr via a sensor up your exhaust. Sounds like the guy you went to is a bit of a novice.

barryp28 wrote:
honestly quandry i don't know if he can do that, i might sound like a bit of a dummy here but he does'nt hook up anything to the engine or sensor's... just puts it on the rolling road and drives it up through the gears... but when you mention ignition timing, a mechanic friend of mine reckons there is something wrong with the timing as my car does'nt like starting at all when cold...but at the moment i have a 3" de cat, induction kit, race radiator, walbro fuel pump, and new plug's and lead's to go on her, gonna get her dyno'd again next week and see what happen's! wish me luck!!

Well there is two different types of timing, one is static timing and that is the timing of the cams in relation to the crank, and the second is ignition timing where the ECU will advance or retard the spark depending on the conditions.

If you have a timing problem on starting, it's unlikely to be the ECU, it's more likely to be static timing and means you might need to reset your cams. Is your idle smooth, or lumpy?

btw, I would not go back to that dyno unless he tells you he can give you a boost readout and AFR (fuel ratio) on the same sheet. It takes all of ten minutes to hook that up. Like Spanky says, if he can't do that then it's complete novice territory and go somewhere else.

cheers quandry, u know your stuff, i rang him again and he can do the afr for me, and a mate of mine said he can check the boost pressure so il have the vital info soon enough... the plug leads were never changed on my car so id say that is a lot of the problem, im gonna change them during the week and get the timing done and see what happens. you did say before that your car was stuck in low boost mode, how did you fix that issue???

barryp28 wrote:
... a mate of mine said he can check the boost pressure ...

best to get the dyno tester to do this 'cause his equipment should plot it against revs. It is part of the test

barryp28 wrote:
cheers quandry, u know your stuff, i rang him again and he can do the afr for me, and a mate of mine said he can check the boost pressure so il have the vital info soon enough... the plug leads were never changed on my car so id say that is a lot of the problem, im gonna change them during the week and get the timing done and see what happens. you did say before that your car was stuck in low boost mode, how did you fix that issue???

As Spanky says, it's better to plot the boost graph on the same page so that you can see how the boost is affecting the hp graph. On a turbo car it is not the motor that makes the power but actually the turbo. You need to have an efficient running motor that is able to get air in and out of there let the turbo do it's job.

If you have hp, rpm, boost, AFR all on one page it can tell you a lot about what is happening.


My car was 'stuck' in low boost mode because the previous owner had disconnected the boost control TVSV which left the wastegate in safe mode.

Can I ask who dyno'd it?

right lads just a quick update, got my car going last night with the new radiator in her and she's bubbling the water inside it like a mother fu*er... sign of my headgasket gone surely, wouldnt help it start either would it, and she would be down on power...? smurfster i got it dyno'd by a lad called shane stafford in adamstown, he tunes rally cars and all....

The bubbling may not be headgasket, could just be air left in the cooling system after changing the rad. The MR2 has very long waterpipes so it can take a lot of bleeding to get the system running right.

Check out this page of the BGB to find out how Toyota recommend to bleed the system:
mr2.ie/mr2/bgb/mk2/mechanical/cooling_system.html

I've heard he was good for a dyno run? If Slipsliderg hadn't of organised the power run in westward I would of went there.
Out of curiosity whats his prices like?
As Quandry said the bleeding air process on a 2 is tricky to get all the air out. Get the back of the car well up and the two clear pipes hanging high up the front. Get her up to temp and I find giving the heaters a full blast for few minutes when hot seems to release more air!
Don't mind the rattle in this vid. Something loose on a pop light!

Another old trick is to run the motor from cold with the radiator cap off (remember cold don't try removing it when the engine is hot!!) - as the motor warms up, the water pump circulates the bigger bubbles to the highest point - where your rad cap goes. Give your radiator hoses a squeeze also. This will only really help you with air bubles in and around the engine area though as the MR2 system is very long.

great news lads, finally bled it RIGHT and she's grand, staying a third of the way up on the temp gauge when idling and dropping slightly when i drive her, thank god! he charges me fifty for it smurfster but i went to school with him, il find out how much he'l do a dyno for you for if ya want? what was your tubby putting out if ya dont mind me asking??

and 1 other thing lads, more great news, heard a hissing in d engine bay the other day so took out the intercooler yesterday and all the pipe work, pipe work is grand but when i filled the intercooler with water and held it up water flowed out of a hole bout the size of a cigarette butt... problems with power solved!! wohoo!!

barryp28 wrote:
what was your tubby putting out if ya dont mind me asking??
201bhp last year completely stock. Interested to know what she's at now. Uprated intercooler, decated, blitz air intake and an apexi avcr fitted since then. I have a stock intercooler here if your stuck

cheers smurfster but i have an upgraded intercooler ordered for her, taking the engine out of it today so i can port and polish the inlet and outlet ports and change the timing belt... when i have her back together im gonna get a remap aswel if its possible..

Rev 2 Ecu isn't remapable without adding a power fc or the likes