right lads as ye can probably tell im wondering which is best, to swap my rev 2 engine out for a rev 3, or tune my rev 2?? my rev 2 engine is already out on a bench to work on anyway so swapping is not a big deal or is it??? its hardly just as simple as throwing a rev 3 engine in is it??

why do you want to swap?

i dont particularly WANT to change it, but i would like to know which is easier and cheaper really, stick in the rev 3 lump or tune the rev 2...?

Is it N/A or Turbo

she's a rev2 turbo...

barryp28 wrote:
she's a rev2 turbo...

If you are not looking to go mad, just tune that.

Do you have a level of power you wish to achieve as the Rev II can produce high levels of power just like the Rev III.

There are several lads here with substantial experience in the high HP stakes, if you are looking at 300bhp then that AFAIK is quite achievable with what you have and some small scales mods.

jesus slip if i could get up to 300bhp id be delighted, my driving abilities wouldn't handle much more!! i have a 3inch de-cat, and induction kit already so any help on what else i would need is greatly appreciated... new uprated intercooler is on the way along with new plug lead's and 1 grade colder plugs... what else would i need tho??

What you need is a proper dyno baseline run to see where you are. This will identify any weak points already existing with your setup that can be improved prior to adding or altering the performance.

Then set yourself a realistic goal power wise and read up on the best way to achieve it.

There is no point strapping on a load of parts and hope they all gel together to give you the figures. Look to others with experience and there are plenty here with that knowledge (Quandry, Spidey, WeeJohn, MJmitch etc).

I am not experienced on tuning side of things just read alot on the tuning, this is a cracking book and worth buying before anything else Toyota MR2 Performance

From what I know you need to look at the following:

Air filter.
Uprated SMIC.
De-Cat downpipe and exhaust.
EBC (Electronic boost controller)
CT20B turbo (I believe)
then a
Apex'i ECU to run your fuelling / ignition etc. (not sure if that is really needed for the 300bhp point.)

Again lots of lads on here with plenty of experience, heed their advice and you won't go fair wrong.

I would recommend you read the MR2 Power Primer: www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

It can give you a lot of information to get started on your way.

300hp is very obtainable on a Gen 3 engine with only a decat, free flow filter and boost controller. On a Gen 2 engine it involves changing a few more things also.

If you are aiming for over 300hp then it's much of a muchness between both platforms. ATS racing has Gen2 engines at 700hp on mail order.

cheers slip, much appreciated for the advice, i was thinkin i would find a few experienced tuner's on here alright hence the post, and i did the baseline but only got 148.3 so thats why the engine is out now, found out what the issue there was tho in what looked like a small nail hole in the intercooler if your wondering why the smiley face it's cos im delighted it was only the ic. 300 bhp is what im aiming for, with the weight of the mr2 that will make it a demon that eat's honda's in it's spare time! now as mentioned, i have the 3inch de-cat, air filter,and upgraded ic on the way, so recomendations pls, exaust system? electronic boost controller, and bigger turbo am i right??

Leaking intercooler will drastically kill your hp. I reckon with an EBC and the stuff you have already you should see 260ish bhp with out much more mods. Its surprising the difference when running at 1bar when your used to stock boost level. A good after market boost gauge is a must

The way to more power on a turbo car is more booooost. The 3sgte is quite receptive but in the Gen 1 & 2 engines the headgasket is a weakpoint. You need to upgrade to a metal headgasket to up the boost. Pretty sure I still have one new in box that might suit if you're interested.

You will also need a fuel cut defencer, although to get to 300 safely then you might want to consider a programmable ECU as the Toyota ECU is not really designed to go there so you have to rely on electronic gadgets etc and some trickery

as said above!
its not that easy to get 300bhp from a rev2, althou 270/280 is gettable and will feel seriously quick. With the mods you have done, i wud get a decent exhaust system, a metal headgasket is an absolute must and a boost controller. if ur turbo is good id leave it alone, but if its on the way out maybe replace it with the rev3 ct20.
with these mods, u can safely turn up the boost to around 1bar, but u wont see 300bhp.
To get the magic 300 on a rev2 ull need a new ecu a a remap to suit ur mods.
If ur engine is good i wudnt replace it, id tune it to 270/280 and i assure u, ull be impressed! especially if ur used to 143bhp!
That said, iv 2 rev3 engine here if ur after one! and a HKS EVC4 boost controller

My bad on the 300 and raising your hopes, as I said these guys know more than me.

But I was only 7% or so out, not bad for a guy who works in a vacuum

my god this place is like tuning tips for dummies(me being the dummy) !! right so, metal head gasket, and according to the power primer a boost gauge and controller, fuel cut defender, 1 grade colder plugs, and turn up the boost to about 17p.s.i. when i want it??? ya i was thinkin the car was nifty enough with just 150 bhp, double that and il need to wear nappies driving it id say!! how much for the rev3 engine and boost controller...? how much for the metal head gasket??

You cant just fit a FCD and turn the boost up, the fuelling needs to be increased as well and thats the bit that takes some setting up.

Some people will say its a bad idea, but for your level of tune and the fact that you are not 100% on where you want to be, a good buy would be the likes of a Blitz Access/Toms/Mines ecu. These ecus add timing (power increase) add fuel where needed (engine life safety), remove the standard boost limit (no need for a FCD) and top speed limit. They are also adaptable to different set ups, so if you decide to turn the boost up a little or change the intercooler or exhaust, you wont need to pay for a remap like if you had a Power FC or the like. They hold their money so if after a while you want to go further, you can replace it and get your money back on it, not to many other tuning mods you will buy that can have that said about them.

They do not control boost, so an electronic boost controller will also be needed, but that can work with any ecu so its a permanent mod.

Apart from all that, all you have to remember is that a fast car will only be fast to you for about 3 weeks, then you get used to the power and want more lol.

so wee john all your saying i need is that ecu and a boost controller to get up around the 280 ish mark???

I wouldnt like quote you a figure, its depending on how much boost you want to run, but running higher boost requires other supporting mods.

I think it would safely get you over 250 and the possibility of more.

i must try that so, any good places to get my hand's on one of them...?

To tune a rev1 and\or 2, there's a few 'must have' parts that need to be installed, to make it worthwhile.

The standard ct26 turbo is a very fast spooling turbo, but maxes out at around 5.5k rpm. If you upgrade to a ct20b, you'll get a little bit more lag, but it will hold full boost to near the redline.

A list of things to buy would include:

Metal headgasket, a standard rev3 turbo one is perfect
Fuel cut defender, to allow higher boost
Boost controller, ideally electronic as you get much more stable boost
Walboro or similar 255 lph fuel pump
Fuel pressure regualtor set to 42 psi, but your stock one might be adequate
Uprated smic - ebay ones are fine. Ideally get the shroud for them, through gts chris
Decent quality, proper fitting silicone boost hoses, and good clamps
Kelsport throttle inlet plenum (rev1 only)
Free flowing exhaust system, and decat (3" can cause boost spikes)
Good quality induction kit
A good quality boost gauge

If you're replacing the head gasket, it's wise to also buy a new set of quality head bolts. ARP's are the best, but stock Toyota ones will suffice - but they must not be re-used

You'll also need to disable the tvsv when you fit the new boost controller, and providing the engine is healthy, and you fit the above, you should see circa 260-270 bhp at 1 bar.

The stock 440cc injectors have been known to cope with 1.1 bar (16 psi), but I personally wouldn't risk it.

To go further, you can install rev3 540cc injectors, and then use a piggy back ecu such as a greddy emanage, or even an apexi safc or similar to control them.
On the rev3 injectors, with an emanage blue (with timing and map looms), I achieved 332 bhp on a bone stock engine at 1.3 bar. Although at that point a piston cracked

300 bhp is easily achievable with the correct mods - but budget around £1000 - £1500 plus labour and dyno time, if you want to shoot for 300 bhp

barryp28 wrote:
i must try that so, any good places to get my hand's on one of them...?

This is not mine, I have no connection to it, just an example off you what you are looking for.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-mr2-turbo-blit...adb52e#ht_674wt_1186

weeJohn wrote:
barryp28 wrote:
i must try that so, any good places to get my hand's on one of them...?

This is not mine, I have no connection to it, just an example off you what you are looking for.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-mr2-turbo-blit...adb52e#ht_674wt_1186

Be wary about buying old ECU's that are custom tuned for a specific car. Maybe you will get lucky and maybe you won't...

mj how's it going, u said on a post i had up a good few months back that you had 2 rev 3 engine's for sale.... my rev 2 engine is shot, how much are you looking for 1 of them engine's eh?