Fair condition RevII 3SGTE long block in running order - 550 Euro

HKS headgasket, otherwise stock. Dyno'd at 300hp although turbo being sold separately, was running when removed from MR2.

Will require a rear crank seal replaced before fitting and a degrease. Comes with a clutch. Suit buyer looking to replace existing GenII MR2 turbo engine.

Note: Wiring, brackets, alternator, axles and water pipes/housing not included as they were reused on my car.

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Bump for a great deal. Aside from dropping into a gen2, also great to get for a forged build project

bump

What turbo were you running to achieve 300bhp?

pacman160778 wrote:
What turbo were you running to achieve 300bhp?

Ex TTE (allegedly) CT20b hybrid for sale here: www.mr2.ie/index.php/mr2-forum/6-buy-swa...b-hybrid-blitz-decat

hmmmm... i'm actually tempted on this now, after we spoke about it before

Its would make sense for me to fit a built engine rather than spend more money on rebuilding mine

How sound is the engine? You describe it as "fair condition"..... why is that?

Well it has about 120,000k of use and is 17 years old.

My logic is: it's not low mileage which I would term 'great condition' and an average condition one would not have an oil leak from the rear main which mine does. So that sort of drops it below average condition to 'fair condition' which means that fit a rear main and you have got yourself an 'average condition for the age 3sgte'.

It has got an HKS headgasket which allows for more boost, and going by the dyno graph is well capable of producing good power (and more). The engine was always very well behaved, not a particularly noisy top end and no coolant leaks. The owners before me where quite fastidious and I have treated it nicely with good fluids/maintenance. I think with the rear main replaced (and a degrease) it would probably be 'better than average' compared to a lot of other 3sgte's.

What are your power goals?

Any interest Pac?

Something to think about over Christmas bump

stupid question whats a long block

if i aint mistaken its the head and the block which makes it the long block. the head is the top end(cams, pulleys, inlets and outlet valves and head) and the block is the bottom end(pistons, crack, rods and block. short block is the bottom end.



Can someone back me up....!!

glenner wrote:
if i aint mistaken its the head and the block which makes it the long block. the head is the top end(cams, pulleys, inlets and outlet valves and head) and the block is the bottom end(pistons, crack, rods and block. short block is the bottom end.



Can someone back me up....!!

Yep, thats it - and he's also including the clutch along with the longblock.

Bump, good engine for a rebuild project or a cheap and cheerful to get a broken two back on the road.

bump

Geoff, I am still interested, just need to put the funds together. NCT sucked a heap of money off me. If it sell in the mean time it sells, but hopefully I will be getting a long block of you in the coming month.

PM'd

SOLD

KC+1 to the buyer

Thanks kindly.