Hi Folks!

I want my engine (3rd gen 3S-GTE) rebuilt but I don't know where/who should I bring it..
My original idea was to send it to Hungary (where I'm from.)
I know a great mechanic there, but at the time I was planning, I did not know about this great community.

Could you throw me ideas/names/numbers/etc.. of good mechanics whos r doing rebuilds?

I know Joe in Galway, but he is pretty far from me as I live in Arklow...
If no other option, I'd bring it to him of course, but something closer would be better.

I heard about a guy called Dempsey in Tinahely, but I need fellow MR2 owners feedback!

Thanks!

Hi Juliuswws

My V6 is in with Seamus Dempsey at the moment. I can't really give a full feedback on him yet. But so far I can't complain. He seems reasonable so far but I'm not sure I'd say the same if I was in a hurry! He has seems to have a good setup there and I've had him skim/test a head for my sisters Opel Tigra before with no problems. TDP in Rathnew are another option but I find there prices are back in the Celtic tiger times!

Maybe give TDP a call and see what they can do for you.

Other options would be Martin Tracey at Westward engineering but he's a bit of a hike from you, and there's always the option of send the engine to Tim at TBDevelopments (UK) or just order in a whole spare engine from ATS Racing:
www.atsracing.net/Parts/Index/ATS22STROKER
They deliver all over the world.

Another option but a bit further away is

www.aliburrowsmotorsport.com/

Anto300ZX was up with him and he could not say enough about him. His workshop is as clean as a hospital. And when he takes on a job, he gets it done (have seen lots of places take on jobs and takes months and months longer than originally promised).

Just to give you an idea - most places won't even talk prices without calling to them - but he gave me ballpark prices (Sterling)

"for us to remove and rebuild engine plus refit and leave running .. £600 approx ish ... plus any oils ect .. then any machining time .. head skim £140 ish , block the same .. boring £ 170 ish .. "

The above is obviously me supplying parts (as i was talking to him about a stroker).

Thanks for the input guys!

I forgot to say, I want a stock rebuilt.
I won't go for forged pistons/rods etc. ( I even bought an OEM rev3+ air filter box to replace my aftermarket mushroom filter )
I preffer my 2 close to original as possible. However, I would not get rid of my Wolfrace alloys...

The only aftermarket/tuning parts in my bay will be: HKS BOV and a downpipe.
The rest of them should be all OEM equalent parts.

You might think I want the rebuilt done by 500€, but it's not true.


Please keep sharing me your experience with mechanics where you have done rebuilt.

Location-wise it can be all Ireland now...
At the end of the day I can get anywhere in half a day.

Thanks again!

It might be worth chatting with East Coast Customs. Their main mechanic is a guy called Adrian who knows (and loves) the 3SGTE.

They are based in Lisburn, N Ireland - about 150 miles from you.

How are you,

Just wondering, why you looking to rebuild it anyway ? something wrong ?

Hi!

At the moment she smokes like hell cold or warm. Also I don't have smooth idle and no torque at low rpms.
There could be a sticky valve causing the unstable idle...(or not?)

Since it started to smoke I disconnected the turbo and blocked actuator, but acted the same...

The only problem is my car that I bought it of a mechanic...
Last march when I bought it was perfect! No smoke even on boost. OEM boost gauge showed flat out on boost, good idle, no mayo in the oil cap etc.
300mi later boost gauge showed ~80%. I know OEM gauge is not accurate, but still...
I drove her 2500 miles and I can't use her at all now.I parked her down nearly 2 months now. I have to use my girlfriends Alfa Romeo
I haven't drive my 2 crazy hard since I have it. I did not spin out the wheels once! Always warmed her up and cooled down the turbo.
I have been simply f@ck3d over. I don't want more surprises in the future, so that is why I want the rebuild.

On the top of it, my 3rd gen is equipped with a ct26 instead of ct20. This car wasn't my first buy (neither the second), but I did not notice the turbo downgrade.

Cheers!

"The only problem is my car that I bought it of a mechanic..."

I did not mean it as it sounds!

I think buying a car of a mechanic is either a very good or a very bad thing.
i picked the wrong type of the above:(

Juliuswws wrote:
"The only problem is my car that I bought it of a mechanic..."

I did not mean it as it sounds!

I think buying a car of a mechanic is either a very good or a very bad thing.
i picked the wrong type of the above:(

Some of the worst and best cars I have seen have been owned by mechanics and at times, both. One as a daily hack and the other as a hooligan machine that is never cared for.

Does your car have a air flow meter, if so it may be a rev I or II engine not a 3rd gen.

As for the problem with yours it may not need a rebuild, but a good mechanic can diagnosis the actual problem for you. Valve stem oil seals, turbo seals etc. Keep a eye on the oil level, if smoke comes out you need to put oil in to keep the engine alive.

If a mechanic figures out the problem they are entitled to get the work. Don't shaft them by taking it elsewhere because they are cheaper (often there is a reason they are cheaper).

I am not saying you would, it is something I have seen a bit of and its just not right!

I dont know if I am out of the line here but those engines dont just go like that.

Compression test will give you good idea of whats happend, other thing is from what you say it souds like air leak (as you discribed loss of boost and then rev trouble that fallowed.

One time I MBC-ed my 200sx to 1.2 bar (0.7 stock) with supporting mods, and something blow up - a bang and loads of blue smoke behind.

My engine worked after that just identicaly to what you described.

Uneven rev, could't drive it , loads of smoke on idle. bearly starting - it turned out to be a rubber hose on intercooler entry (covered by bumper so hard to see) after pluging back with new hose and clamp the car lived for 2 years no problems and I know that turbo (as i sold it making upgrande) is still fine 6 year on.

What you mean by disconecting turbo ? if you have air flow meter it will newer run if unconected , if turbo is bypassed somehow - it will still smoke by frying oil on exhaust side.

Juliuswws wrote:
Hi!

At the moment she smokes like hell cold or warm. Also I don't have smooth idle and no torque at low rpms.
There could be a sticky valve causing the unstable idle...(or not?)

Since it started to smoke I disconnected the turbo and blocked actuator, but acted the same...

The only problem is my car that I bought it of a mechanic...
Last march when I bought it was perfect! No smoke even on boost. OEM boost gauge showed flat out on boost, good idle, no mayo in the oil cap etc.
300mi later boost gauge showed ~80%. I know OEM gauge is not accurate, but still...
I drove her 2500 miles and I can't use her at all now.I parked her down nearly 2 months now. I have to use my girlfriends Alfa Romeo
I haven't drive my 2 crazy hard since I have it. I did not spin out the wheels once! Always warmed her up and cooled down the turbo.
I have been simply f@ck3d over. I don't want more surprises in the future, so that is why I want the rebuild.

On the top of it, my 3rd gen is equipped with a ct26 instead of ct20. This car wasn't my first buy (neither the second), but I did not notice the turbo downgrade.

Cheers!

Sounds alot like what happened to my car and that was ring lands gone completely. It even seemed fine when I bought it and a while later same symptoms as yours. First indicator was smoke and then when pulling the dipstick out when the car is idle and rev it a little, if there are ring lands gone you will get alot of blow by from where the dip stick goes in. This will be exhaust gases from the combustion cycle entering into the crankcase and pressurizing it.


Like the others have said a compression test will tell all really and should only take 10 minutes. Then once you get the results you can make an informed decision of what to do next.

Hi!

I think a car mechanic seller can fool you much better than a normal car owner. You gotta agree with this!
I know, these engines are very reliable and I hope I'm wrong with this mechanic and only my turbo gone and few bits and pieces.
I have definitely a 3rd gen as I have no AFM and my oil filter is on the bottom. My chassis number also proves it.

When I tested the turbo I disconnected the hot pipe to ensure no oil goes in to intake line from the compressor side and blocked the actuator rod to prevent turbo spinning on higher rev. I ran it like that for a while but nothing changed. Well it still could be the seal on the turbine side...I definitely agree! Also my turbo has a side to side play. More than it should, however I never measured it.
Anyways, this ct26 turbo has to go because I want the ct20.

I'm kinda maniac of restoration to original!
This is the other reason I'm pushing the whole thing rebuilt as I want to feel 100% sure.
If I ask myself: Is my engine perfect? I'd like to answer: Yes as it has been rebuild completely and I breaked-in properly.
I'm planning to long term with this engine!
But you are all correct, I should do a compression and leak down test. You are about to convince me!

Thanks for the inputs and for trying to push me on the right path!
This really is a "cracking community" !

Cheers!

Juliuswws wrote:
On the top of it, my 3rd gen is equipped with a ct26 instead of ct20. This car wasn't my first buy (neither the second), but I did not notice the turbo downgrade

This is not necessarily a lower grade setup. My rev3 also has a CT26 fitted. There is a receipt for (essentially) a hybrid turbo setup so it has relatively recently replaced vanes and shaft (no ceramic) and it was mated with the original rev3 hot side.

Some of our more expert members may confirm or contradict but I believe the CT26 is quicker to spool than the CT20. The only downside of the CT26 was reliability relating to the ceramic shaft and possibly the max boost, but if you are staying standard then the current setup might actually be better

....... according to some forums the CT26 also starts to drop boost towards max revs whereas the CT20 doesn't.

Basically I don't see that here is a lot of difference and your turbo could be more than a standard CT26.

Again, according to other forums, the CT20 is a modified CT26. A stage 2 CT20 hybrid is equivalent to a stage 3 CT26 hybrid. I'm not sure what visual checks you can make to determine exactly what yours is but don't through it out just because of what it says on the side

Spanky makes a good point there. Where turbo chargers are concerned you can't judge a book by it's cover. The real place to tell if the turbo is good or not is on the dyno, however you'd want to ensure your engine isn't blowing smoke etc and timing belt in good condition first.

I'd say go with a compression, or better yet leak down test. TDP have a little camera they can put down in the bores of your engine to check for scoring etc without taking the head off.

It's not something simple like you overfilled the oil level is it? I've heard of that happening.

Here's a Karma Click for good luck on finding out the problem soon - spring is on it's way and that deuce needs to be driven!

Hi!

Spanky must be right. I always wondered what is the real difference between the turbos.
Even the repair/renew kits are good for both turbos.

The owner actually told me at the day of purchase that the turbo is a stage 1 or 2 from fensport. He never mentioned it is a ct26.

This information did not bother me much as I could not verify it and did not really know what that means at the time.Unfortunately I have not much experience with turbo cars.

So the ct20 and 26 basically has same CHRA? Only the ceramic turbine wheel is the difference?

I think I'll keep this turbo than!
Thanks!

Hi!

I ordered a compression tester, so I'll be able to test it on this week.
How much pressure is considered as good?
Also how much difference is allowed between the cylinders?

Thanks!