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How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install
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TOPIC: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install
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How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 305
How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change

There has been a few people talking about changing suspension on the site recently. I have been working on a suspension refresh on my own car and took some pics to help others DIY it themselves if they want. In this particular case you're going to see the Tein Super Street coilovers (basic) being installed although this walk through could be adapted for any combination of shock coil. Where there's specific notes for the Tein gear, I'll try and point that out to save hassle for others that may use that kit in the future. Another point is that although I start in the back left hand side, there's no real reason for this, you can start on any shock in any order. My car is a Rev 2 JDM, there may be some minor differences in parts/bolt sizes if your car is not the same year/market as my own. Take this in to account by doing a 'dry run' of the walk through with your own car to make sure you have everything required to do the job. You can click on any picture to see it in full size and get a better view.

Things you will need for this job:
1. Wheel brace
2. Alloy wheel lock nut key(s)
3. Philips head screwdriver
4. 10mm spanner
5. 14mm, 17mm socket, 19mm socket (deep)
6. Breaker bar
7. Latex gloves - unless you like dirty hands
8. Vice grips (otherwise known as Hombre Solo)
9. Flat blade screw driver
10. Patience - It will take roughly 30-40 minutes per corner to do this job if you have a rattle gun. Without one it could take significantly more.

Step 1. With the car on the ground, loosen off the wheels nuts. This is MUCH easier when the car is on the ground than after you jack it up.

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Step 2. Remove the engine bay side inspection cover by removing two screws and the ground cable (10mm)

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Step 3. (Still with the car on the ground), bring out a breaker bar and extension arm to loosen (note the word loosen, not remove) off the top mount nut. The reason to do this now is that it's going to be pretty tight on there, especially if it's been sitting like that for 18+years... You can loosen it when it's off the car, but be prepared for a lot of wrestling. For those that are fitting a shock/spring kit that has top mounts provided, you can skip this step.

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You want to get the nut that it is still hanging on by enough threads to hold it all together. Just makes it cleaner taking it all out in one piece without having springs flying etc.

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Step 4. Jack up the car and support it with TWO jack stands, one on each side (you don't want the car to tip on you). You don't need the car up amazingly high, just high enough that the tires are off the ground

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Step 5. Loosen off the rest of the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

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The shock unit is actually not held on by very much. As you can see in this picture there is one bolt for the drop link about half way up the shock body. On my car this was a 14mm, however I don't know if this is a Toyota original unit or not. There's also two big bad ass bolts clamping the shock in place to the hub carrier, a brake line clip, and of course the three top mount bolts (four on the front).

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Step 6. Remove the drop link nut. These can be a pain so it's best to do it first. If you can't get this one then you have to abort mission anyway. On mine it has a system where you have to hold the inner part of the bolt with an angle key while loosening off the outer part. Basically some jackass had been in there with the wrong size key and rounded it to hell. Luckilly I had bought an impact wrench (rattle gun) some months ago and because of the impact action I did not need to hold the centre part, the gun just whistled it off in no time. In this case as I am not switching out the sway bar, it's only the top nut that needs to come off.

Step 7. Pull the brake line clip - this holds the brake line in place to the strut. These are equally as annoying when they've been sitting there for years you may have trouble getting a good grip:

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So you can jimmy it a little with a screwdriver like so:

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Then you're golden

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Step 8. Next remove the two bad boys down below. The torque setting on these is 255nm so be prepared for some heave ho with a long bar, or do it the lazy (and quick way) like me:

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One issue I found here was that the brake line going in to the caliper was blocking the way for one of my bolts. On the first wheel I foolishly removed the caliper/disc, on the second wheel I just unsnugged the 14mm brake line banjo a bit and turned the line out of the way. Not a drop of fluid lost so no need to rebleed.

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Step 9. Pop back up to the top side and remove two of the top mount nuts. Leave the third hanging on by a thread or two. (yes I was doing this job in the rain!)

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Step 10. The strut is essentially ready to come out at this stage and a bit of rocking back and forth should loosen it while you have a friend undo the top mount nut (or you can do it by yourself but this is not recommended for people with back trouble.

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Now you can remove the top mount nut. NOTE: if you have the early Rev 1 suspension, your have hi rise springs. You may need a spring compressor at this point - I don't know.

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The inside of your wheel arch is now looking very empty:

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If you have time, this is a great chance to clean out your wheel arches and put on a fresh coat of underbody sealer.

Comparison picture of the tein super streets versus standard. The large height difference is down to the fact that in this picture the coil adjusters are wound right down to their lowest level. Note also that the little green hat on the left is used as a spacer underneath the top mount - not to replace it.

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Step 11. Fitting the top mount (once again skip this step if your kit has topmounts included). Due to the rain, I was a bit rushed at this point and landed up making a large error. I would also like to put some blame on Tein as I think this aspect should have been spelled out in great detail. I'm going to point this out now to try and save others from making the same mistake. Here is a close up of the top mount area of the tein unit:

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Once the spacer hat goes on, it looks like this:

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Note that the shaft is keyed. I did see this before starting the install, but I did not acknowledge the significance. The factory top mount is also keyed, and needs to be fitted to the shock in the right way. Be warned, the top mount will go on really easy and look right even if you don't have it installed for the key correctly. This caused me all sorts of trouble later on when trying to do up the top mount nut, and I landed up having to drop out the coilover again the next day to do it right.

Another note here is that the top mounts get fairly dirty, I gave mine a quick once over but would prefer to have painted them etc. Unfortunately with the weather the way it was that was a luxury I could not afford.

There is a spacer here that the Tein instructions tell me to reuse from the factory setup

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Then it's a case of putting on the locking nut that came with it

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This next part is reasonably tricky and it's recommended that you have an assistant. You have to do up the lock nut (it's a tight bugger) all the way down the thread so that it's holding the top mount firmly in position. To do this you want to have your spring adjusters at the lowest position (if they're adjustable), and make sure that the top mount does not slip upwards off the key. The way to make sure you still have it keyed is to gently rotate the top mount and using one hand check to see that the shaft is turning also. If it's not turning, then you haven't got it keyed right.

Don't worry about doing the final torque down at this point, we do that next.

Step 12. Reassembly. Align the top mount so the bolts look like they're in the right pattern then lift up the shock in to place. You may need a helper to assist in guiding the studs up the right way as this is a heavy back braking job. Have your helper ready with nuts at hand to secure the strut in place as it can easilly fall down and out of the way.

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Connect the drop link at this point while you still have some movement on the strut.
Put the two bad ass bolts in place and do them up tight-ish.
Connect the brake line in place and refit the clip.

NOW break out the torque wrench, torque the three top mount nuts (80nm), the two badass bolts (255nm), the drop link (refer bgb) and then the top mount centre shaft nut (tein is 72nm I think?). I would suggest revising the bgb and instructions that come with your shocks to ensure you get this right.

Step 13: If you have adjustable height coilovers then you need to set the height in accordance with your manufacturers instructions. Check to make sure your wheels clear the strut ok, if they foul, you want to know this now rather than later.

Step 14: Put on your wheel and torque it ON THE GROUND, Then repeat steps 1 through 13 until you have fitted all corners. Bring your car for a slow and quiet test drive. Listen intently while going up and down speed bumps/ramps, car parks etc to see if anything sounds like it's clunking. If so then you may have not tightened something correctly.

Step 15: Bring your car to get a four wheel alignment. Not all garages have the right equipment to do this and it will have a big effect on your cars handling, driveability and tire wear.

Final note: I have yet to complete my front shock install, expect some follow up pics/notes when I've got that done ;)

I got a few spare hours the other day so decided to tackle the front end install:

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Step one: open the bonnet! :)

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Loosen off the four strut top nuts (14mm), and also if you are reusing your strut top, loosen off the centre nut (19mm). Leave the nuts on by a few threads at the moment.

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Step two: jack up the car and support it with jackstands

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Time to loosen off some tight azz nuts with a 19mm. I recommend getting a rattle gun for this or you're going to be hurting. Remember to check that you are undoing the NUT END. Don't try to undo the bolt, you might sheer off the head. Once you have the bolt spinning you need to put a 19mm spanner on the other side and you'll whip that nut off in no time.

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I found that the bolt fouls against the brake caliper. You could put the bolt in around the other way but basically will have a prob using a rattle gun on the nut anyway.. To get around this I under the top 17mm caliper bolt, loosened off the bottom one and slid the caliper to the side.

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Removing the end link from the sway bar can be a challenge. Depending on the type of link your car has installed, it may be an allen key type or double spanner type. Mine was the rounded like a mofo type so I had to enlist the help of hombre solo. Luckilly the MR2 Tein super street kit comes with a new set of drop links for the front.

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Next it's a case of removing the brake line clip. I did not have my camera handy for this step, it was a little rusted on unfortunately but I got it by tapping gently with screwdriver and hammer. The tapping action is the real winner here.

Step three: Give the hub a little shake back and forward to make sure the strut is
free-ish, then undo the top mount nuts.


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Give the strut a futher little shake and it should fall out in your hands. Be careful removing the strut as you don't want to dent or scratch your wheel arches on the top mount threads.

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Wow my old struts are nasty! They rode nice though as they were the Black Bilstein type.

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step four: strut assembly/fitting

Tein front unit is very similar to the rear type, with the exception of the drop link mount.

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The drop links that come with the teins are double spanner type

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Insert the threaded end and work the nut on with your fingers. Patience is critical here.

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Using double 14mm spanners, tighten that guy up good. Tein recommend a torque setting, I am not convinced you could accurately measure torque in such a tight space so I just did it holy shizz tight.

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There's an adaptor plate that sits between the spring and toyota top mount. It's keyed (unlike the rear one), so make sure you get this on the right way or you'll never get the centre nut done up

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Once the adaptor is on, sit the top mount in place, fit the tein spacer and then the centre nut

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Tightening the centre nut is a little tricky, you have to hold the adaptor plate to stop the centre shaft from spinning, then get a torque wrench on the top. I had to lean the strut up against a wall to be able to hold the tein spanner while I got a big torque wrench on there for 72.6nm of torque.


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It's then a case of connecting the drop link to the sway bar via two 14mm spanners, slipping the shock unit up in to place, doing up the top nuts hand tight, bolting up the two big 19mm's and torquing them to 255nm. Then torquing the top mount nuts to 40nm. I was unable to reclip the brake line in place as the mount on the new shocks was too thick, so I used a double zip tie trick to hold them in place until I think of something better.

Finally, I adjusted the bottom spring seat to a gap fo 25mm in accordance with the Tein manual.

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One thing I noticed was that the sway bar sits lower with the Tein kit and when the car is jacked up it fouls on the lower suspension arm.

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As you lower the car back down though it lifts up to clear no problem.

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Quandry
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Last Edit: 2011/06/05 16:18 By Quandry.
If you're suffering from lag, you're either in the wrong gear or the wrong car!

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#30756
Re: How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 311
Nice work Quandry, I did this last year, but it was to hurried to do a write up.

KC'd
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#30757
Re: How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 94
Good job homie. Hopefully mine will be done for next weekend. No more clunks and bangs!
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#30758
Re: How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 148
Kc+1 for effort that went into that write up Quandry!
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#30768
Re: How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 102
Nicely done Kc'd for sharing the info
Any news on the mani in tdp?
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#30781
Re: How Two: MK2 MR2 Shock/Spring change 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 209
Excellent write up.

Now, I just need to buy a set of coilovers to justify the rattle gun I already have
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#30788
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover instal 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 305
Spidey wrote:
Excellent write up.

Now, I just need to buy a set of coilovers to justify the rattle gun I already have




Thanks for the positive comments and kc's guys. On balance the Tein super street setup is not that expensive if you choose the non pillow ball option. For racing, or someone who want the ultimate flexibility in setting up their camber, the pillow ball option would be great.
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If you're suffering from lag, you're either in the wrong gear or the wrong car!

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Click for mk2 BGB
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#30790
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover instal 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 82
Excellent write up man, learned a lot +KC
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#30795
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover instal 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 22
Nice how two man! KC'd
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#30796
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 12
Great clear pics Quandry, a real help to anybody thinking of changing their struts
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#30797
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 3 Months ago Karma: 59
Nice write up Geoff. I swapped out my suspension a few years back and it's a job any enthusiast should attempt. Nothing like the satisfaction you get after taking it for a spin and you can notice the difference in handling straight away!
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#31216
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 2 Months ago Karma: 305
Updated the first post with the fronts now also. Handy enough job altogether!
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#31222
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 2 Months ago Karma: 311
Quandry wrote:
Updated the first post with the fronts now also. Handy enough job altogether!

No deal without pictures of the finished ride height shot, KC pending

But seriously, well done Geoff.
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#31224
Re: How Two: MR2 Tein Super Street Coilover install 3 Years, 2 Months ago Karma: 305
slipsliderg wrote:
Quandry wrote:
Updated the first post with the fronts now also. Handy enough job altogether!

No deal without pictures of the finished ride height shot, KC pending

But seriously, well done Geoff.


Good idea Ray. I will schedule a few shots with different ride heights... coming soon!
Quandry
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If you're suffering from lag, you're either in the wrong gear or the wrong car!

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